Starting Your Own Wildflower Patch
Table of Contents
Step
1: Select and design your site
Step 5: Decide when you want to plant
Step 9: Watch for seed germination
You can create your own beautiful, easy-to-maintain wildflower patch that will return to surprise and delight you year after year. When planting wildflowers and/or prairie grasses you are inviting habitat for wildlife, butterflies and birds. You will also be preserving our natural heritage.
You can begin planning your new wildflower patch any time of the year. Then, when spring or fall arrives you’ll be ready to seed.
These step-by-step instructions will help guide you through the process of starting and caring for your new wildflower patch.
If you don’t understand some of the plant words used on this page, visit the glossary by CLICKING HERE.
Step 1: Select and design your site
The goal of planting a wildflower area is to develop an attractive, long-lasting planting that will provide flowers year after year with self-seeding annuals and perennials.
In addition to roadsides and community gateways, wildflowers are a great addition to your backyard, along bike trails, in parks and on school grounds. Talk to your teacher, parent or other adult about finding the a good location for your project.
Prior to planting select a site that fits your project. Here are some important questions to consider:
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Does the chosen site currently support plants? (If you have an area where plants and unwanted weeds don’t already grow, the site probably won’t support your wildflowers.) |
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If you don’t get enough rainfall after planting, can you supply supplemental water if necessary? Can you drag a hose to the site so that it can be watered? |
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What amount of direct sunlight per day does the area receive? (Prairies and meadows require sunny, open sites with good air circulation. A minimum of one half day of full sun is necessary for most wildflowers to thrive and bloom.) |
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Have you determined the existing soil type and drainage (how water flows away from the area) within the area? (Poorly drained or heavily compacted soils with produce unsatisfactory results.) |
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What type of neighbors will your wildflowers have? Are they the aggressive, weedy type? (Problem neighbors include Quackgrass, Smooth Bromegrass, Johnsongrass, Canada Goldenrod, Tall Goldenrod, Canada Thistle, Grey Dogwood, Sumac, Buckthorn, Tatarian and Japanese Honeysuckles, and Multiflora Rose, to name a few.) |
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Step 2: Know your soil
A major factor on how well your seeds and plants will grow is their compatibility with your soil. Each plant species has a range of soil types in which it will flourish. It is very important to choose your seeds to match your soil type.
Soils can be divided into three basic classifications: sands, loams and clays. Sandy soils contain large sized soil particles that are loose and easy to work. They all water to drain readily and tend to be low in nutrients.
Clay soils consist of very small, tightly packed soil particles, clays tend to be dense and hard to work. However, they are generally rich in nutrients, have a high water-holding capacity, and can be very productive.
Loamy soils are composed of many different sized soil particles, they combine fertility and moisture-holding capacity with good drainage. Easier to work than clays and better consolidated than sands, loamy soils make an excellent medium for growing most plants. Many wildflowers do best in loam soils.
You can help determine your soil type by taking the "feel test." Take just enough moist soil to rub between the thumb and fingers. Rub it back and forth several times and feel it very carefully. A clay soil will be slick and smooth, with little or no grittiness. A sandy soil will be gritty and will not stick together well. A loamy soil will stick together easily, but not like a clay. Loams will feel moderately gritty.
If you are still in doubt about your soil type, take a soil sample to your local county extension agency or soils laboratory for analysis.
If you have a sand or clay soil and wish to improve it, there is no better method than to add large quantities of organic matter. Compost and dead leaves are excellent. Do not use sawdust, wood chips or similar materials. These require a long time to break down and rob the soil of nitrogen. Avoid uncomposted manure because it contains large numbers of weed seeds.
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Step 3: Select your plants
The next step in the planning of your new site is the selection of the wildflower species. The goal in selecting a variety of wildflowers is to develop a plant community that will be attractive and get along in terms of growing requirements, that will flower over longer periods of time, that will reseed the site for generation of new plants, and that can be contained and easily maintained.
To be successful, the wildflower species must get along with and adjust to the growing conditions at the site. They must also be competitive with other species present, including weeds. Native species generally are most adaptable to local growing conditions and are usually the most competitive with native weeds that will be present. It is important that your plants are competitive or they will be driven out by the weeds.
For a list of some of the wildflowers used on Iowa roadsides CLICK HERE. These plants are likely to be more successful.
When making your selection, you might want to give some thought to :
the amount of time it takes for the plant to grow after seeding;
desired color choices;
plant type (annual, biennial or perennial);
average plant heights;
what type of soil it grows best in;
amount of sun or shade needed; and
the types of wildlife, butterflies and birds that it will attract.
Most wildflower mixes are a combination of annuals for flower color the first year and reseeding annuals or perennials for flowers in the following years.
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Step 4: Prepare the site
The best preparation of a wildflower site is one that kills as many weeds and weed seeds as possible in the area where you want to plant your seeds.
Chemical application
Chemical application must be done by an adult. Adults will use special chemicals or herbicides to kill all of the plants. This step can take four to six weeks before the before the soil can be prepared. When using herbicides, ALWAYS READ THE LABEL, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Hand weeding
Removing the weeds by hand is another option if the site has only a few weeds. Otherwise, this would not be a practical way to prepare your site.
Smothering weeds
On small areas of a few thousand square feet or less, smothering weeds on the are is simple, effective, and requires no chemicals, or special equipment. Smothering involves covering the soil surface with black plastic, old rugs, 4’ x 8’ pieces of old plywood, or a thick layer of leaves. This should be left in place for a full growing season to kill the plants underneath.
Agricultural fields
Corn, soybean and other small grain fields typically have less weed problems compared to other areas, and require less preparation. The seedbed may be prepared without using herbicides, using cultivation as you would for any other crop. The final seedbed should be prepared by tilling or discing, followed by dragging or raking. DO NOT plant wildflowers in field treated with Atrazine within the last two years. Prairie wildflowers can not tolerate even low levels of Atrazine.
If you decide to use chemicals to eliminate weeds, wait seven to ten days after the chemicals are applied before tilling the site and preparing it for planting. This will require the skills of an adult or done under adult supervision.
Loosen the soil surface only slightly to enhance seed contact. Remember, thousands of buried weed seeds lie dormant beneath the soil, ready to germinate if the ground is disturbed too deeply. Extensive rototilling, disking or plowing the soil greater than one inch in depth will release the dormant weed seed and create an uncontrollable weed problem in your wildflower area.
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Step 5: Decide when you want to plant
In Iowa, wildflowers can be planted in either the spring or fall. To determine when to plant in other areas of the country CLICK HERE to visit the USDA Plant Hardiness Map.
If you want to plant in the spring, a late spring planting is recommended sometime between April 15 and June 15. There are risks, however, associated with spring planting. Warm spring weather and adequate rainfall will speed up germination and seedling growth. However, is rainfall is not regular after initial germination, followed by an extremely hot, dry period, watering may be required to keep the ground from drying out and the seedlings from dying.
If you plan to plant in the fall, select a time between September 1 and October 15. If you decide to plant in the fall, the seed will remain dormant (sleeping) during the harsh winter months and germination will begin at the first indication of spring.
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Step 6: Sow the seeds
Once the area to be planted has been properly prepared, seeding can begin. On small areas, less than an acre or two, seed can be planted by hand broadcasting. Broadcast seeding is similar to planting a law. Instead of using a seeder. The wildflower seed can be mixed with material such as peat moss or vermiculite, that has been slightly dampened so that the seed will stick to it. For a 1,000 square foot planting, two bushel baskets of other material is plenty. Mix the seed evenly in the other material.
Take one-half of the total mix and spread it across the area. Once you have covered the area with the first half of the seed mix, take the second half and spread it evenly across the same area, walking perpendicular to your first pass.
Distribute the wildflower seed evenly in the planting area to give each seed enough space and resources for germination. Spreading the seeds evenly also helps to control weeds from taking over the area.
Then rake or drag the seed in so that it is lightly covered with soil, one quarter to one half inch deep. Either tamp the soil or water the area to ensure good seed-soil contact.
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Step 7: Mulch
A light, seed-free mulch, such as wheat straw or oat hay, can also be used for seedling protection. Never use field hay as it contains many weed seeds. The mulch should be lightly and evenly spread with no heavy clumps. A heavy, uneven mulch reduces wildflower growth and may result in areas with no plants. For seeded areas, 1 to 2 inches of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture.
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Step 8: Water
Regular light watering of seedlings for the first two months will greatly increase germination and seedling survival. Water when the surface begins to dry out. Mulched areas require less frequent watering. Water only in the morning to help prevent disease problems. Do not over-water.
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Step 9: Watch for seed germination
A seed contains an embryonic plant in a resting condition, and germination is its resumption of growth. Seeds will begin to germinate when the soil temperature is in the appropriate range and when water and oxygen are available. Not all of your seeds will sprout at the same time due to temperature changes observed in nature.
The most common cause of poor germination is the depth at which the seeds are sown. Small seeds should be planted on the soil surface and pressed or rolled in for best results. If the seedling is to survive, it must emerge from the soil and quickly begin to produce its own food. It seeds are too deeply buried, the seedling with exhaust its food reserve and cause it to die.
A good rule to follow, if in doubt about the sowing depth of your plant species, is to sow the seed at a shallow depth.
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Step 10: Control weeds
Weeds are an inevitable part of gardening and they should be expected. To help you control weeds in your wildflower patch, remember these three key points:
1) anticipate weed problems before they occur;
2) identify seedlings quickly as they grow; and
3) take corrective weed control action as soon as possible.
In general, weed seedlings are easier to control before they mature and establish good root systems. The best size for weed control is usually four inches or less. Early control will reduce weed competition with young wildflower seedlings giving them maximum opportunity to grow.
Avoidance of the weed problem by properly selecting and preparing your site, and preventing regeneration is often easier than trying to establish weed control at a site infested with weeds.
Before planting, check out the current weed population in the area where you want to plant. If the site contains a lot of weeds, which is usually the case in low-lying or run-off areas where water occasionally sands, it is highly recommended that a different site be selected. For best results, pick a site that is elevated with good drainage.
Mowing
Most wildflower plantings are maintained with an annual mowing. Mowing should be timed to remove weeds before they flower and develop viable seed, to disperse wildflower seed for reseeding the site, and to remove dead plant material and improve the appearance of the planting. Mowing also helps control invading trees and shrubs. Mowing in mid-spring and removing the cut material will expose the soil to sun and improve the growth of the heat-loving wildflowers.
Hand pulling
Hand pulling is one option for weed control in small wildflower planting sites. Any weeds that are pulled from the site before seed mature and spread will contribute to the future overall weed control. One weed can produce thousands of seeds. The danger with hand pulling is that wildflower seedlings remain very small the first year and can be easily pulled up right along with the weeds. Pulling weeds also creates soil disturbance, which exposes new weed seeds.
Chemical control
Chemicals should always be handled by adults only. If you want to use chemicals to control weeds in your wildflower patch, this must be done by an adult. The goal is to find a herbicide that wildflowers can tolerate, but which kills the weeds. There are no broadleaf herbicides that are known to be safe for a wide range of wildflower species. Adults should read the labels on the herbicides closely to make sure they will not seriously damage or kill your wildflower plants.
ONLY ADULTS SHOULD USE CHEMICALS!!
Controlled burning
The Iowa Prairie evolved under the influence of fire. Started by lightning or by American Indians, these fires kept out trees, recycled nutrients into the soil, and stimulated growth of the wildflowers and native prairie grasses. Controlled burning on a two to five year rotation remains the best method of managing prairie plantings. Properly conducted, a controlled burn is safe and economical.
ONLY ADULTS SHOULD PERFORM CONTROLLED BURNS!
Allelopathy
Some plants product chemicals that prevent the growth of other nearby plants. This is called - allelopathy. The toxic chemicals may be released from the roots or leaves and plant remains that lie on the surface of the group. When it rains the chemicals enter the soil with the rainwater. Weeds known or suspected of causing this chemical reaction re bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylong), johnsongrass (Sorghum halepnese), yellow and purple nutsedge, pigweed (Amaranthus spp.) And sunflower (Helianthus spp.). If these weeds are left in your wildflower patch, your wildflower population will be severely reduced.
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Nature’s Role
Nature plays an important role in the success or failure of all wildflower plantings. Adverse weather conditions such as drought, hail, or excessive rainfall may negatively affect the success of your wildflowers. Soil or drainage problems in your planting area may also prevent your seeds from germinating.
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