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SITE PREPARATION, PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE Tips
for selecting a healthy plant
Avoid tall spindly plants. A short bushy plant will transplant easier and is more likely to grow into a nice specimen. The roots provide the food for the plant, and are of the utmost importance. It is essential that there is a healthy, robust root ball that fills, or nearly fills the planter. On the other hand, you don't want a root system that is compacted into the pot so densely that it is choking itself. It is inappropriate to remove the plant from the pot yourself, but if you have doubts about the condition of the roots, you may be able to convince the nurseryman to do it for you. Normally, you can look at the drainage holes in the pot and get a pretty good idea of what is going on inside the pot. A few (but not too many) roots should be beginning to poke through the drain holes. These roots should not be dry or brittle. No roots should be showing above the surface of the soil. Generally, a plant's stems and trunk determine its eventual shape and fullness. The main stems should be thick and healthy in appearance. Look for abrasions, breaks or other stem damage that may be slowly killing the plant. For best results, before making your selection take a look at a photo or illustration depicting the appearance of your plant at maturity. Then select a plant with a form typical for that species. Avoid strange or deformed young plants. The foliage should be clean and show no signs of wilting. The leaves should appear to be strong and healthy, and the foliage color should be bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering
plants should have young, tight buds. It's nice to see the plant in full
bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your
garden until the following year. This is especially true with
Rhododendrons, Azaleas and other flowering shrubs.
Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period,
so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be
considered. Garden
Preparation, Setting Plants and Planting Instructions Once
a suitable garden design has been agreed on, set aside either a Saturday
or an extended period during a school day to carryout the actual planting.
Edwards
school discovered that its Parent Teacher Organization (PTO) was a good
resource for helping students with bed preparation, planting, purchasing
and transportation of plants, and obtaining the necessary tools and other
materials. In
addition, some nurseries offer free delivery, which would eliminate one
less activity that must be organized. Perennials
and annuals must be grown in an area of the garden that meets their
requirements for sun, moisture, nutrients, drainage and air circulation.
Take these requirements into consideration when planning your planting
locations, as well as the labor that it will take to make the area usable.
Keep in mind that the more effort you put forth toward your gardening, the
more you will be rewarded. You don't have to follow every step to the
letter, especially when you are dealing with an established planting area. When
is it time to start preparing your garden?
When
it's SPRING, it's time to
prepare your garden. You are about to put all your planning and
preparations to work.
Let's get started! The
garden can be worked as soon as the soil is dry enough that it won't form
heavy clumps and collapse on tender plants. Use
the chocolate cake test: Squeeze
a fistful of soil in your hand. If, after being squeezed, the soil forms
into a ball and maintains the form of your fist, it's still too wet. If it
crumbles like good chocolate cake, it's ready for you to work it. Tools
list
To
prepare your garden plot you will need:
Preparation
of the Plot
Most
new garden areas will require site preparation before planting can begin. Raking Removing the competition Weeding
can be boring, but if you have a big-weed contest, and hang up the
biggest, most unusual, and longest weeds in the hallway display, you'll
have fun challenging yourselves and the work will get done a lot faster. If
there are any shoots from trees, sprouts from seeds or seedlings growing,
remove them. Pulling or digging up unwanted existing plants, rather than
tilling them under, will help ensure they won’t return. If you start
working the area in early spring, before any existing plants have had a
chance to take hold, this will also help ensure that no competing plants
will disturb your bed. Removing the sod If
your spot involves a grassy area, start by removing two to three inches of
sod, either manually with a shovel or sod cutter. The latter of the two
recommendations would be easiest. If you haven’t already asked a nursery
or landscape contractor for assistance, this would be the step to ask for
help. It is possible they would come and cut, roll up and remove the sod
for you.
Tilling Now
that the surface of the garden is clear, it's time to turn the soil. This
is hard work, particularly with a new patch of ground. The best way to
turn the soil is with a power-driven tiller, although small gardens can be
turned by hand with a spade. Try
to borrow a tiller from parents, a garden center, or a hardware store.
You'll need adult volunteers to run the tiller as well. If you need
additional help, consider inviting the community to a Digging Day. Local
chapters of Future Farmers of America, garden clubs, or agricultural
colleges (Iowa State University) may also provide help. It's ideal to turn
the soil to a depth of one foot. Students
can help with this process by picking up rocks, twigs and pieces of
plastic or metal found after the soil is tilled. It's probably wise for
glass or anything sharp to be left for an adult. To
use this technique, start at one end of your garden plot.
Be sure the soil is moist enough the shovel can go into
it. Try this a week ahead of time and add water daily until the soil is
pliable. Dig
a trench across the width of the bed standing on a board to prevent
compaction. The trench should be about one foot deep and one foot wide.
(If you have to make a smaller trench because the soil is too hard, that's OK.) The
soil from the first row can be put in buckets or a wheel barrow to be used
in the last trench or for the compost pile. Place
a garden fork (stronger than a pitch fork) at right angle to the trench
and try to pierce the soil
as deep as you can. While one foot is on the shoulder of the fork, wiggle
the pitch fork back and forth to loosen and fluff up the soil. Dig
another trench, but put the soil in the first trench this time. Continue
until your entire bed has been completed - dig with shovel, and loosen
with fork. Use
soil in buckets/wheelbarrow to fill in last trench. Even out the bed by
raking it. Add
minerals (kelp, sea bird guano) or winter-spring vegetation seeds (vetch,
rye) by following the package directions. If not planting vegetation right
away, collect leaves to cover the garden and prevent erosion. If you are
planting spring flowers, be sure it is after the last frost. If possible,
transplant small plants started in the classroom. After
the soil is dug, prepared and mixed, it should be leveled out with a steel
garden rake. Pathways and areas that wouldn't be used for plantings should
be covered with mulch. Any
rocks that are removed from this area can be used for small rock walls, a
"rock" garden, or as garden accents here and there. The entire
area needs to be watered thoroughly to help the soil settle. Then
take a break, look around and enjoy the fruits of your labor. For
a more environmentally-friendly approach to gardening, avoid or minimize
your use of pesticides, herbicides or chemically-manufactured fertilizers.
An alternative to manufactured fertilizers is bio-friendly
materials such as compost or manure. Another
recommendation is to use native plants, which are hardy enough to drive
out competitors. If any weed control needs to be done, do it by hand and
make maintaining the garden a classroom activity. The
DOT’s roadside planting and maintenance programs are working hard to
minimize the use of chemicals or reduce mowing by planting native plants
and prairie areas. This helps
save limited taxpayer resources, protects our environment from harmful
chemicals, and creates wildlife habitat. When
is it time to plant? Every
country is divided into climate zones. It's a map showing areas that have
similar growing conditions based on a combination of average temperatures
and rainfall. Each zone is influenced by geographical features such as
mountains, large or small lakes, forests, prevailing winds, its
relationship to urban areas, and lots of other factors. Your own garden
could even be a microclimate within a zone. The
plants you choose for your garden should be hardy to Seed
packets, garden books and the local nursery will help you choose the
flowers, herbs, vegetables and shrubs that should flourish in your garden.
Don't
forget to note in your garden field journal when the weather
allowed you
to start preparing your garden plot for planting. Measuring
Plant Locations This
step involves setting your plants on top of the ground in the areas where
they will be planted, and in accordance with your measured landscape
drawing. It brings the flat
drawing to life and offers a multi-dimensional view.
Students are able to visualize the actual placements, making sure
they are pleasing to the eye, and consistent with the plans and design
concept. Placing
your plants in the garden in accordance with a The
distance on a ruler or tape measure multiplied by the scale used, will
provide you with the exact distance.
After
setting your first few plants, double-check the distances between plants
against your measured drawing. Completing
this step is highly recommended since establishing the plant separation
between plants is far more important than their location in relationship
to the landmarks. Plant separation anticipates the mature growth size of your plants and allows plenty of room for sun. Proper separation also promotes less competition for water when they are young and not yet established. In
addition, it’s a good idea to set the larger plants first to avoid
damage to the smaller ones. As
you set the plants, you can also make minor adjustments to the layout to
achieve the desired compromise that is equally beneficial to the plants
and aesthetically pleasing to the gardeners. Planting
Perennials and Annuals Annuals
by definition are plants whose life cycle
lasts only one year, When
you plant a perennial, you must consider that your plant will be in the
same spot for several years. As such, the preparation of the ground must
be more complete. Annuals on the other hand will do just fine in any
reasonably rich soil with a minimum of feeding. Most
annuals and perennials come to you from the protected environment of a
greenhouse. They need a gradual introduction to direct sun before they are
planted to prevent sunburning. Set your plants outdoors in a sheltered,
lightly shaded spot, increasing the amount of sun they receive each day. The
plant is first watered thoroughly, and then removed from its pot by Avoid
damaging the plants! Never remove them from the pot by pulling them out by
their leaves or stems. It
is a good idea to do your planting on a cloudy day or late in the
afternoon to avoid the heat of the midday sun and prevent undue shock to
the plant. Before you
actually put your plant into the ground, turn it around and examine all
sides to be sure that best side is "faced" in the direction it
will be viewed from most often. Planting
depth and hole diameter A
hole for a plant should always be at least twice as wide as, and only as
deep as, the root-ball or pot that it comes in. This allows sufficient
room for the plant to spread and will help to ensure an overall healthy
start. If you remove too much dirt from the bottom of the hole, be sure to
pack it firmly back into place. If the dirt is left spongy in the bottom
of the hole when you place in your plant, it will settle to a position
below ground level, which could be very damaging to the health of the
plant. After
the plant is set in its hole, position the plant to your liking so it
appears level and the best side is visible, and fill the hole. Do not pack the
soil too much since the air pockets allow water to be conducted easily to
the roots. Water periodically
when you’re filling the hole. When
finished filling in the soil, use some of the excess dirt to build a mound
around the hole. This will help direct water to the roots. Mulch Many
gardeners leave their gardens alone for a few days and when they come back
it's full of weeds and they become discouraged.
Mulch will help prevent weeds from taking over your garden. This
means your class can spend more time enjoying their garden and less time
pulling up unwanted plants. Mulch also helps to
keep you and your plants cleaner, and gives your flowerbed a nice,
finished look. If
establishing a prairie style planting from seed or a wetland planting,
mulching is not recommended. Different mulches have different properties, but most of them do the same basic jobs. They all:
Mulch types include: bark, black plastic, cardboard, carpet, grass clippings, hay and straw, peat moss, landscape fabric, leaves, newspaper, pine needles, wood chips (one cubic yard of hardwood mulch equals approximately 108 square feet of coverage of a recommended 3 inches thick.) When using mulch around plants, choose your mulch wisely so that it doesn’t inhibit the plant’s growth. Avoid heavy mulches such as bark nuggets - it provides shelter for garden pests such as snails, and its decomposition process actually robs the soil of nitrogen.
Supporting
plants Some
plants need to be supported or staked because they can easily be blown
over by the wind or because they get top-heavy with blossoms or fruit.
Staking a plant while it’s growing is easier because the branches are a
little more flexible and less likely to break than when they are fully
grown. Plant
stakes Set a garden stake in the hole of taller plants that will need support to reduce wind and rain damage. The stem should be tied to their support using strong, stretchy materials that won't cut into growing branches. Strips of old nylon hosiery will work very well for this.
Plant
Ties You can use anything soft and pliable to gently tie your plants to the stakes:
They
need to be long enough to wrap around the plant stem and tie in a knot
behind the stake. Use them every 10 inches to 12 inches along the
stem to support the weight of the maturing plant. Plant cages
Trellises and Arbors
Bean
poles and houses Plants
that grow very tall, like runner beans, need to have a trellis to climb up
so they don't lay on the ground and get eaten or damaged.
You can make a support frame from lightweight bamboo stakes about 5
feet in length. Select
what plant will be at each end of your support structure and push a stake
into the soil on
each side
of it, about 2 feet apart. Cross
the tops of the stakes and use some twine to tie them tightly together
about 6 inches down from the top. These are your "uprights." Make
your next upright about 3 feet along the row and every 3 feet after that
until you reach the end of your row. Lay
a long pole between the tops of the uprights so they rest in the
cross-over at the top of the uprights. Tie them in place so they don't
slide. The
beans will love to climb up the poles and along the supports. The blooms
will look terrific and you will be able to pick the ripened beans easily. An
added bonus is that ground bugs won't bother them as much and you will be
able to see any pests that you have to remove. If
you feel very ambitious, you could create a 'bean house' that you can
actually sit inside by making your supports in a square shape and leaving
an opening for a door. By summer's end you'll have a secret hiding place
right in your garden.
Another plant that grows very tall and can create a super garden hideaway for young kids are sunflowers. For complete instructions on how to plant a "sunflower house" in a 45-minute lesson, follow this link to the University of New Hampshire's Horticultural Program's Web site. Maintenance after planting After
planting, monitor the condition of the plants for several days, making
certain that the soil remains moist. Remove spent blooms to prolong the
flowering season (unless you plan to save the seeds).
enjoy
the beauty you have created!!
Watering If needed, plants subject to direct sun and wind should be watered daily for the first few weeks after planting. Always check the soil first for moisture content using the "chocolate cake test." Take a handful of soil from under the mulch and squeeze. If it forms a ball, it has plenty of moisture. If it feel dry and crumbles, it may need to be watered.
Use a hose
or watering bucket to water each plant.
Be sure to water gently so you don’t erode dirt from around the
plant and expose the roots or wash away seeds. Fill each of the reservoirs
created by the mound of dirt that was built around the hole several times
when watering. If
the weather’s exceptionally hot, watering should be done twice a day,
once in the morning and once at dusk. Watering at these times ensures that
the water will go to the plant and not be dried up by the hot air. After
two weeks of watering, the plants should be well enough established to
stand on their own. However, if a particularly dry summer comes along, you
might consider light water to help prevent the plants from dying. Hand
Weeding Some weed control might be advisable until the garden is established. However, try to avoid the use of herbicides, which can keep kids who we want to be in the garden, out. Hand weeding small plantings during the second and third growing seasons will make a big difference in your garden. Care must be used when weeding to avoid disruption of the soil, which can dislodge smaller plant seedlings. Weeds will generally pull easier a day or two after rain or watering (when soil is soft, but not muddy). Be sure to remove weeds from the site before they mature and spread seed. Again, try to make pulling weeds and cleaning the garden a classroom activity. Mowing I During
the first growing season, the planting may need mowing a number of times.
The cutting height should be 4 to 5 inches (a home lawnmower set at the
highest cutting position should work well for small areas). Mow
each time the weed growth is 6 to 10 inches high and do not allow weeds to
set seed. Do not worry about cutting the tops off or crushing the
seedlings. A
flail-type mower is preferable for large areas because it chops cuttings
into small pieces, which will filter down and serve as mulch. If a
rotary-type mower is used, mow more frequently so cuttings will not have
become large enough to smother native seedlings. Try
to time the last mowing so weeds can grow to about 8 inches before winter.
This will help protect young seedlings from heaving frosts. During
the second growing season, one mowing may be helpful in late spring or
early summer to knock down any aggressive weeds. The cutting height should
be set between 6 and 12 inches. This should be the last mowing needed for
weed control unless a serious problem occurs. Last updated: May 14, 2002
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your zone or they won't flourish, no matter how fertile the soil.
measured drawing is accomplished by first locating the plants on the
drawing and their relationship to a plotted landmark. It’s recommended you identify several landmarks, like borders of the garden, a
building or tree to ensure proper placement. 
from seed to blooms to seed. Removing the flowers as they fade
prolongs the blooming cycle, but if left to produce seeds, many annuals
will readily reseed themselves. Annuals are usually available in little
starter “six packs” or in 4-inch “color spots.” They are an
excellent way to create a great splash of summer color in the garden, or
for long blooming annual baskets.
placing your hand over the root ball to support it, and inverting it. Give
the pot a couple sharp taps with a trowel handle to loosen the roots. The
container can now be lifted from the plant.
f
your garden design includes the establishment of a prairie area from seed,
mowing is the primary management tool used to prevent weeds from shading
prairie seedlings. 
