Monitoring your nest box(es) and its tenants, and keeping good records

• Monitoring

• Keeping a journal

• Be a thoughtful birdwatcher

• Recommended nest box monitoring supplies

• Tips for handling injured raptors

Monitoring

Part of being a responsible nest box landlord is your willingness to watch out for your tenants.  Some of your landlord duties include:

•     Checking the box for other species, such as starlings or common sparrows that may use it if not discouraged from doing so.

•     Monitoring the activity in the nest box to determine if predators are gaining access.

•     Cleaning the nest box out after every nesting season.  This is necessary for ridding the box of dirty nest materials, fecal matter, and nest parasites.

•     Repairing damaged nest boxes and replacing irreparable ones.

Nest boxes should be visited at least three or four times each year. The first visit should occur before the kestrels begin territory establishment. The date of the first visit will, of course, vary from one region to another. Because kestrels establish their territories in mid-March in Central Iowa, in this area the first box check is made in late February or early March. At this time, nest boxes are cleaned and repaired, and three to four inches of wood chips, wood shavings, or straw are added to the bottom of each box.

Always work quietly and efficiently to minimize stress to the birds.  Slowly and quietly open the box, and check the contents.  Be careful, you may find something other than a bird inside.  Don’t be surprised to see squirrels, bluebirds, starlings, other birds, a mouse, snake, insects or even honey bees.

Always wear a dust mask when cleaning out nest boxes.  Look for fleas, flies, mites, larvae, and lice in the bottom of the box. 

If you find insects or parasites, your first reaction may be to grab the nearest can of insect spray.  If you do, use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1 percent rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray.  You can also use a 2 percent bleach/water solution to kill any nest parasites.  If wasps are a problem, coat the inside top of the box with a bar of soap.

During the nesting season, the box should be opened carefully and quietly to make sure European starlings have not laid their eggs in the box.  Even if kestrels are present in the box, it is okay to quietly inspect the box a few times during this season.  Occasional checking of the nest will not cause the kestrels to abandon the nest.  

European starling (common starling, English starling)

Photo Credit:  Google Search Engine Image Gallery

European starlings may be a persistent problem because they often nest in kestrel nest boxes. Starlings replace or cover wood chips with grass and other material and lay five, six or seven greenish white to bluish white eggs. Kestrel eggs are usually white, pinkish-white, or cinnamon-colored, and they are evenly covered with small spots of brown. 

If starlings are found nesting, remove the nest and replace it with a new layer of wood chips. Sometimes kestrels will evict starlings from nest boxes. If this happens, the kestrels will use the starling's nesting material.  Starlings are an unprotected species.

Kestrels normally lay a clutch of five eggs.  If you are unsure about which bird’s eggs are in the box, take a few minutes and watch from a distance to see which species is using the box.  If the eggs belong to starlings, remove the eggs and discard them.  Also, remove any nest materials the starlings may have brought into the nest box.

To determine whether the young kestrels have successfully left a nest box, one visit should occur within five days of their expected nest departure. Because kestrels are especially sensitive to disturbance during the first two weeks of their 30-day incubation period, avoid visiting the boxes at this time (last two weeks of April in Central Iowa). The last visit should be made in late summer after nesting to remove old nesting material and to do repairs.

Four downy chicks with female kestrel

Photo credit:  The Kestrel Box, an Arizona non-profit corporation

 Avoid checking nest boxes:

•     In the morning during egg-laying.  Nest boxes should be checked in the afternoon, since most females lay their eggs in the morning and are absent from the nests in the afternoon.

•     During the first few days of incubation.  If necessary, observe the box from a distance and approach only when the female leaves the nest to feed.

•     When young are close to fledging.  When the young are disturbed during this stage, they leave the nest prematurely.  Young that fledge prematurely do not stay in the nest box despite attempts to return them, and their survival rates are very low.

•     During inclement weather.  If the weather is cold, damp, or rainy, postpone checking the box until another day.  Checking boxes during this time can be very stressful for the birds.

Keep accurate records on each nest box. Notes taken on each visit will help to evaluate the success of individual nest boxes, the nesting success of your kestrel population, and ultimately, the success of your efforts.

First of all, when monitoring keep a good distance, approximately 100 yards or so. Use binoculars to get a close-up view.  Monitoring during spring may enhance the ability to sight kestrels, which are easier to see when performing courtship behaviors

When monitoring, search for kestrels perched on fence rows, utility lines and poles, and trees, and kestrels in flight.  When a kestrel is sighted, use your binoculars or a spotting scope to verify identification of the species and make an attempt to identify its sex. Behavior and vocalizations should be noted, especially courtship and nesting behavior. If the kestrel moves during the observation, flight direction should be recorded.

Other signs of kestrel activity should be recorded (e.g., prey remains, pellets, feathers at plucking sites, white feces stains accumulated at perches or roosts.

Be sure to keep records of arrival, nesting and departure dates of the kestrels occupying your nest boxes.  When kestrels decide to nest at your box, you’ll start to notice that the female enters the box for a few minutes and then leaves.  This is a good sign that she is laying an egg.  Kestrels usually lay an egg every other day.  Once all the eggs are laid, they incubate for 30 days.  They eggs will hatch within a few hours of each other. It will take about 30 days for the nestlings to become fledglings (what we call a bird when it leaves the nest).  Usually, the young ones will wait until they get kicked out of their parents’ territory.  Sometimes kestrels will lay a second clutch of eggs, especially if their first one failed.

If you’d like to become involved in the Iowa Department of Natural Resources’ statewide kestrel nest monitoring program, you may obtain reporting forms by visiting the agency’s Web site at www.iowadnr.com,  writing the Wildlife Diversity Program, Iowa Department of Natural Resources, 1436 225^th Street, Boone, IA  50036 or calling 515-432-2823.

Keeping a Journal

Birding or bird watching is not the easiest sport in the world to learn, but it is definitely one of the most rewarding. You see, birders experience something new every time they go out. You might see a new behavior, hear a new vocalization, or even come across something startling, like a rare bird that somehow strayed far from home.

The constant variety and challenge of birding are two important attractions, but so too is the camaraderie. About 42 million people in the United States are casual bird watchers, feeding and observing birds around their homes. A much smaller number, around 17 million, take trips for the primary purpose of watching birds. Still, that's a lot of people poking their heads into bushes and craning their necks toward the sky.

Record keeping is not only important for documenting the success of your nest boxes.  While it may seem time consuming at first, it can be a fun and an interesting educational experience.

In a notebook or field journal, record information that describes your boxes, their placement and habitat, contents observed during visits, and nesting attempts.  (See lists below for suggested record keeping items. Free field journals are available to Enviro-Explorers Club members.  Click here for details.)

In addition, record your observations related to:

• Plumage and coloration - noting variations among sexes and different ages, and distinct markings such as breast spots, wing bars (thin lines along the wings), eye rings (circles around the eyes), eyebrows (lines over the eyes), eye lines (lines through the eyes) and many others
• Size – compare the size to common birds you know
• Body shape – wings, bill, small, short-legged or long-legged, crested or not crested, plump or slim and sleek, short-tailed or long-tailed
• Voice/calls – listen to the bird’s song or voice
• Behaviors – hovering, diving, perching, pecking, feeding, courtship, walking, flying
• Perches – type used and time sitting there
• Migratory patterns
• Diet
• Life span 
• Observe evidence left behind by birds – feathers, droppings, footprints

Your records can also include drawings/sketches, photographs, maps, and box design plans.

While these notes are intended for your use only, they may be valuable to share with other conservation and bird watching groups.

Nest box contents data

•    Date

•    Nest box identification number (you can assign your boxes an ID number)

•    Species observed

•    Nest material present (Yes or No)

•    No. of eggs

•    No. of nestlings

•    No. of fledglings

•    Sex of fledglings

•    No. of unhatched eggs

•    Season or weather conditions

•    Comments and observations

 Nest attempt data

•     Nest box ID – unique name or number for each nest box

•     Attempt # - nest attempt number for that nest box

•     Species – specify for each nest attempt

•     Fate – successful: at least one young fledged; or failed: no young fledged

•     Cause of failure – describe reason for failure (nest abandoned, weather, predation, parasites, human activities, competitor species, unknown, other)

•     First egg date – estimate date when first egg was laid

•     Egg color – describe color of eggs

•     Clutch size – record maximum number of eggs per nest attempt

•     Hatch date – estimate date that the first egg hatched

•     Hatch within 24 hours? – Record if all eggs in the clutch hatched within 24 hours of one another (yes, no, unknown)

•     Maximum number of nestlings – maximum number nestlings per nest attempt

•     Fledge date – estimate date nestlings left the box

•     Maximum number of fledglings – record maximum number of young that fledged from the box

•     Maximum number of unhatched eggs – record maximum number of eggs that failed to hatch per nest attempt

•     Parasite evidence – record evidence of parasites (no evidence, larvae present, pupal cases present, scabs on chicks, other)

•     Comments and observations

Nest box description data

•     Nest box ID – Unique name or number for each nest box

•     Box mount – specify what mounting system was used for each box monitored (fence post, electrical conduit, phone/utility pole, tree, free standing pole, sign post/back)

•     Predator guard type – specify what type of guard is placed around each box (no guard provided, noel guard, stovepipe baffle, conical guard, greased pole/pipe, other)

•     Entrance hole orientation – specify direction of entrance hole (north, east, south west, northeast, southeast, southwest, northwest)

•     Height above ground – measure height of entrance hole in feet

•     Dimensions – describe box design, if you used built a box using a design other than the one provided on this site.

Habitat description data

Select one of the codes below to describe both the primary habitat (located within 100 feet) and secondary habitat (located within ½ mile) of your box.

1. Residential urban/suburban
2. Resident/rural
3. Agricultural field
4. Meadow/grassland
5. Park/school
6. Forest/woodland
7. Forest edge
8. Golf course
9. Cemetery
10. Swamp/wetland
11. Industrial/commercial
12. Fresh water
13. Other, specify

Be a thoughtful bird watcher

•     Try to observe the birds so they don’t know you are there.  Move slowly, make as little noise as possible and keep your distance.

•     Avoid trampling fragile natural areas. 

•     Don’t litter.

Recommended Supplies for Nest Box Monitoring
Information adapted from The Bluebird Monitor's Guide by Cynthia Berger, Keith Kridler, and Jack Griggs. Please note, it is not necessary that you have all the supplies mentioned below, as this list is a compilation of recommended supplies from dozens of nest box monitors.

CLEANING SUPPLIES

• Gloves (rubber and/or leather)

• Trowel

• Spatula or putty knife - for squashing wasps and scraping out debris

• Whisk broom

• Paintbrush or toothbrush - to get the box really clean

• Plastic or paper bags - to carry away old nests or dead birds

• Spray bottle with diluted bleach solution - to spray on mice nests before removal

DATA COLLECTION TOOLS

• Pencil or waterproof pen

• Notebook or data sheets

• Binoculars

• Maps of nest box locations

• Roll of surveyor’s tape - for marking potential sites for new boxes

• Stepladder, if needed

• Bondo spatula or pancake turner - for pulling nests out of a box

• Mechanic’s mirror - to help you see inside boxes

• Magnifying glass - to help you read numbers on banded birds

• Camera

NEST BOX MAINTENANCE

• Screwdriver and screws

• Hammer and nails

• Pliers

• Cordless drill and drill bits

• Wire cutters and wire

• Weather stripping - to seal box vents in cold weather

• Duct tape - for emergency weather stripping or door hinge

• Extra box-mounting clamps

• Vise grips

• Spare nest boxes or box parts

• Pocketknife or multipurpose tool

• Sandpaper

• Pruning tool or handsaw - for cutting back vegetation around mounting posts

• Carpenter's apron - to hold everything

PERSONAL ITEMS

• Sun hat
• Drinking water
• Sunscreen
• Insect repellent
• Baby wipes - for quick hand cleaning
• Paper towels
• Cell phone
• Spare key to your vehicle

PREDATOR CONTROL

• Baffles and hole guards

• Hole restrictors

• Tanglefoot - to deter ants

• Bar of soap - to deter wasps

• In-box sparrow trap

• Grease - to deter climbing predators

Tips for Handling Injured Raptors

(Tips adapted from information published by the University of Minnesota’s Raptor Center)

1. Always contact a professional. Do not attempt to rehabilitate the bird on your own. If you are unsure of who to notify, you can always contact The Raptor Center. Other appropriate agencies would be: 

• U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

• Iowa Department of Natural Resources

• County conservation offices

 2. Never feed an injured bird. The dietary needs of raptors are more delicately balanced than many people realize. Even the best steak imaginable will not provide the bird with what it needs. Also, most injured birds are suffering from dehydration, and attempting to feed or water the bird may kill it, as it is probably not yet able to digest solid food or even plain water. 

3. Handle wild birds only if it is absolutely necessary. The less contact you have with the bird, the more likely it will be to survive.

Remember: Even a seriously injured raptor is potentially dangerous. Wild birds have no way to know that you are trying to help. Even if the bird is docile at first, it is very likely scared, and will perceive you as threat. Raptors are quite unpredictable. Be particularly aware of the bird's talons and beak.

If you must handle or move a bird, be extremely careful. Wear heavy gloves if possible.

We recommend that you wrap the injured bird in a blanket, towel, coat, or other cloth for protection. Gently fold the bird's wings back against its body.

4. The best way to transport the bird is in a cardboard box with plenty of ventilation holes cut in it, particularly near the base of the box. The box should be only slightly larger than the bird, and ideally the bird should still be carefully wrapped in a cloth for protection. The less room the bird has to move around, the less likely it is to cause more injury to itself. The bird's wings and feathers are very vulnerable to damage if the bird panics and begins to thrash about in a confined area. For this reason we recommend that you do not use a wire cage.

5. Provide the bird with a calm, quiet environment, but do not keep the bird any longer than is necessary to get it to a veterinary professional trained to treat birds of prey.

The bird should be placed in a warm, dark, quiet place. Darkness has a calming effect on birds, and quiet is particularly important because of the bird's extremely sensitive hearing. Extra care should be taken to keep the bird away from children and pets.

Bird Possession

In the United States, no person may take, capture, possess, import, export, or transport a live or dead raptor without holding a valid permit. Even the "adoption" of apparently deserted young is illegal without a permit.

While not a requirement of Iowa's American Kestrel Nest Box Program, checking on your nest box every so often and keeping records of your observations and discoveries is one of the most rewarding parts of the program.  

You'll be surprised from visit to visit as you watch the kestrels diving for their prey, feeding their young, and sitting patiently perched on the fence post. 

Click on the "Monitoring and Record keeping" link to find out how to keep a journal of your observations and a recommended list of supplies to take along on each visit.